Saturday, May 9, 2009

Stuck between a metal bar and a toilet

I realized a whole visa (6 months) has gone by since I last wrote.
Of the many things I could write about regarding my first trip to Hong Kong, which I might do in a little while, I wanted to share how I knew I was back on the mainland.

It didn’t take a very long time to see the little more waste that was on the ground and people who were speaking a language that i could understand (Cantonese does not sound much of anything like Mandarin). But my adventure was getting on a bus back home from the train station.

After being directed to a ticket counter tucked away in the corner of a Chinese trinket store, I grabbed a ticket and was told to come back in 40 minutes to board the bus. When I returned, I was directed out behind the store to a 15 passenger van. I threw my stuff in the back and jumped in. Before getting too suspicious, I confirmed I wasn’t going to be taking a 9 hour bus ride in this vehicle, which I was quickly assured was not the case.

Thinking the bus might be a few minutes away I sat and observed the sights around me and struck up a conversation with a few people about how Hong Kong not being as fun as people said it was. After a 40 minute bus ride, we finally came to…the side of the highway. That’s right, we stopped on the side of a highway. No sign, lights, or people anywhere to be seen. Even all the other Chinese on the bus looked quite perplexed and asked, “Where is the bus?” Apparently the scheme is a hybrid between the traditional bus loading system where the bus gets a few people, then leaves and picks up whoever waves their hand on the road and the bus system we all know of leaving at a certain time and no interest in picking up stragglers on the road. In this case, all the people in a certain area that wanted to take the bus were rounded up and put in a convenient location (on the side of the highway).

After about 30-35 minutes of stretching my legs and getting bitten by mosquitos I couldn’t really see, the bus came and we got on. I wasn’t in a rush getting on the bus because I knew I wasn’t going to be moving once I got on the bus. Note, sleeper buses here are 3 bunks wide with 2 center aisles, so it’s a pretty tight fit. Little did I know that the last two people to get on the bus would get the sleepers at the very back of the bus. There was no aisle between the beds in the back of the bus so the only separation between the three beds were metal bars. And for those long trips you can probably guess what was next to that row of beds… (yup, the toilet). Ok, there was a door and all, but it definitely made for fun smells in the middle of the night. So my position was between the metal bar and the toilet. It was quite a funny sight not just for myself but for several of the other passengers who also laughed when they saw how the events transpired, a 6'2" foreigner pilling into the back of a little sleeper bus that is made for southern Chinese, which average not a hare about 5'4".

Throughout the night I was always afraid I would extend beyond the 20” wide sleeper onto the guy (thank goodness) next to me. I only could sleep on my side and keep my knees bent: just enough so that I could fit in the bed, but not too much that I bumped the guy next to me.
Lets just say, it was a fun ride!


But through it all, I went to sleep very glad. To be back in on the mainland, where food is bought off the back of bicycles, intersections are filled with cars going every direction possible, and everyone is on the right side of the road … usually.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

China: Coming to a place near you

If any of you feel far removed from that foreign land you see printed on the back of all of your products, I’m here to tell you that you shouldn’t. The Chinese population living outside of China itself is at least 40 million. And that’s not just in Asia, but 17% of Vancouver, 9% of Toronto, and 7% of Sydney is Chinese. Of if you want to talk economics, I can mention the dependence created by the Chinese running a $262 billion USD surplus (2007) or the $1.9 Trillion USD worth of Foreign Reserves (money other countries are borrowing from China). So whether we like the products or not, the influence they have in the world today is enormous.

Within the month I’ve had the chance to visit Chinatown Chicago, Philadelphia, Toronto and New York. New York was by far the biggest, with upwards of 700,000 Chinese living in Manhattan, Queens, and Brooklyn, combined. Now the home to those who have migrated, largely from Guangdong and Fujian provinces, they are the best place to buy cheap (sometimes you might wonder too cheap) stuff and the core parts of Chinese culture plopped right down there in lower Manhattan. (See video below)





Interestingly enough, like many words that we translate differently in English than Chinese, the word “Chinatown” in Chinese is 唐人街(“Tong Rin Geeya”). This literally “a market of the Tang Dynasty” (618 to 907 AD), considered the Golden Age of China. The highpoint of culture, largest landmass yet to be conquered (slightly smaller than present day China), movable block printing was discovered (1000 years before Gutenberg’s printing press) and during the lifetime of the famous philosopher, Confucius. Though not totally clear to me, my gut tells me the name is such as to promote the highpoint of Chinese culture around the world.

Speaking of promoting Chinese culture around the world. Are you interested in learning more about Chinese history, culture, cooking, or even taking the dive into some Chinese language classes? It just so happens there is a foundation called Confucian Institutes which have been created for those very purposes. Funded by the Chinese government, these institutes are now worldwide. The only one I have visited so far was in my hometown of West Lafayette, home of Purdue University and almost 1000 Chinese students! Classes were only offered a couple times a week, but further involvement in the Institute included a relationship with a local school corporation to teach Chinese in elementary schools.

Its not just Chinatowns and China 1 Buffets anymore, but as businessmen, students, professors, tourism, you name it. I even met a Chinese teenager on a train to Beijing a few months ago whose purpose in going to the US was to join the US Army! (can he even do that?!).

Now for a little test, where its your turn to differentiate between China and Chinatown. Look at the pictures below and try to decide if I took in the US/Canada or in China. Good luck!








Tuesday, October 14, 2008

A bird’s eye view of McCain’s turf

ok, so I’m not going to take advantage of this time to rip apart either of the presidential candidates, my complaining isn’t going to change anything. I actually got to see Senator Obama a few days ago at a rally in north Philly. I frankly was inspired by my first attendance of a political rally to see how excited people can get about getting who they believe is the right person in to a particular position. So how is this blog political, its not but just to say that I’m registered to vote, and will do so absentee while I’m in China, if you want to know who I voted for and why, feel free to contact me.

What I do want to do is to share with you an amazing glimpse of an amazing city, or rather cities, that McCain calls his home, or homes. Phoenix, which to me seemed to be more of a city of ‘burbs than anything else, was a very attractive location with much variety. Not only does it rarely get below 40 in the dead of winter, but even the heat (it was mid-90s during my visit) didn’t feel hot at all because of the dryness. Not to mention the wide streets, picturesque sunsets, and clean air that Chinese would die for. I also realized a reason why so many older retired people spend the end of their lives there. Apart from avoiding the cold winters, word on the Arizona street says that the hot weather helps with thinning one’s blood that has health benefits. My favorite part was the several small mountains/large hills, that took no more than 8-10 minutes to walk up to where you could see the whole metropolis area. At the top, my friend, Austin, gave me a grand explanation of all the peaks, parts of “the Valley” and even Geronimo’s favorite hideouts.

On one day my sister and I decided to make the two-hour drive up to Flagstaff, up thousands of feet in elevation with a lush variety of desert, pine forest and everything in between. Great for skiing in the winter (2nd most snow of any American urban area) and filled with a hiker’s dream in the other months. All you Columbia brand fans and REI frequenters (like Gander Mountain) would be right at home. Not to mention the very strong New Age influence in many of the clothing boutiques and bookshops.

I quickly learned that Arizona should really be more affectionately named “the outsider state” as NO one calls Arizona there home (most people I asked were from Californians sick of the coast, retirees, and those form all over the US attracted by the amazing weather). Its population is supposed to double by 2030. After doing a little more research, in Phoenix, there were 35,000 residents between 2006 and 2007, second fastest growing city in the US (nothing compared to the mass migration of tens of millions in the US, but who can compete with China when it comes to quantity anyway). I mean we are are talking about a city which by 1900 still wasn’t even among the 100 most populous cities.

After just 4 days in Arizona, I definitely understand why its growing the way it is. I’ve never been a proponent of people moving anywhere just because they like the weather, but you might want to check it out. My sister and her friend both found a large availability and higher paying jobs than they ever did in the MidWest. And if things go well for Republicans in the next month, you might even be the recipient of a few “pork-barrel” benefits from being in the Presidents home state. Or then again, the fact that McCain raves against that each time he talks, maybe you won’t.

Friday, October 3, 2008

I propose: “Chinican”

Not sure what’s coming in your mind when I say that. The first time I said it I thought of “Heineken”, but its coined t to be more like “Chinglish” (“CHINese and EngLISH” which is a direct translation of a Chinese into English, often quite humorous), a term understood very well by any foreigner living in China.

During my couple months back in the States I’ve had the privilege of going to about a half dozen Chinese restaurants, primarily buffets in Indiana. Furthermore, fresh out of hearing about Chinese food programs on TV during the Olympics every friend I’ve gone out to Chinese with has realized the lack of Chinese authenticity in Chinese restaurants in the US. In order to educate this growing number of culturally-sensitive Americans, I am writing this blog post. And for me, after being in mainland China for a year not only are they reminiscent, somewhat, of most everything I ate this last year, but they are a great venue for practicing my Chinese!

But before we go around hastily labeling what this “Chinican” food is, I’d like to present an amateur, non-chef perspective on Chinese food and then you can judge for yourself whether the title is appropriate. So, here’s some facts about most food and how it is served in China:

• Contains large amounts of oil
• Often cooked with hot peppers, garlic, ginger and salt
• Instead of being marinated or added at the beginning in order to cook in the food, most spices are added a few minutes before they are done cooking
• Is not baked, actually most Chinese have never used an oven! (but maybe the reason for our high carbohydrate/sugar diet, lets just say I’ve never seen the label “low-carb” in China)
• Is diced into much smaller pieces
• Is served on a single plate, heaped in such a fashion that all but the most professional chopstick connoisseurs spill at bit on the table
• Has very little sugar (a very bad fit for my sweet tooth)
• Rice served after all the hot and cold dishes and only eaten as a filler, if someone is still hungry. Its never mixed with any other dishes spices but eaten straight (and for the record I’ve never seen “fried” rice in China, surprised?)
• Soup, usually water based, at the end of the meal serving as most of the liquid for the meal since the teacups usually can hold 2-3 oz.
• All food is served by what we call “family style” (too bad that’s not what most families in this country to anymore) which people eat by using their own personal chopsticks
• Comes directly from the kitchen and is cooked up right after you order, none of this buffet sitting out for hours stuff

The majority of Chinese restaurants in the US are owned by people from the provinces Fujian and Guangzhou, both southern provinces, with different food varieties than the north. But to be fair, they do adapt to what American like, I mean I’ve never seen jello, shortbread, pudding (tapioca, vanilla, or chocolate), ice cream, sprinkles, brownies, crab cakes, deep-fried egg rolls, fried rice, anything as deeply fried as Sweet and Sour Chicken, egg drop soup (there’s one fairly similar which also contains tomato), orange slices, canned pineapple, sliced watermelon, bananas with sugary coating, or fortune cookies EVER at a Chinese restaurant while in China.

And just for the record, after a little digging online, a word about fortune cookies:
Originally Japanese before it was sampled in a Chinese restaurant in Los Angeles during World War 2. After that time, it began spreading rapidly across the US. For the detailed account of fortune cookies, see http://www.fortunecookiechronicles.com/2008/01/16/how-did-japanese-fortune-cookies-end-up-in-chinese-restaurants/.

This article is not meant to criticize, change or even poke fun at Chinican food. Simply an educational article in order to look for some more authentic restaurants or foods when you’re at a Chinese place. And while you’re at it, why don’t you be friendly to the next Chinese waitress you see and greet her by saying “Knee How” (English phonetics), how she’s used to be greeted in her home country. So even if the food isn’t quiet authentic she can at least feel a little more like she's back in her home country.

Friday, September 26, 2008

When YOU’re the one stopping traffic

Ok, well a continuation of the bus story below is actually more on the positive side. I ended up getting to Chicago on an Amtrak train a few hours later than planned.

For those of you ignorant, like me for the first 24 years of my life, and might never have taken a train, or any form of public transportation for that matter if your from the ‘burbs or a smaller town, allow me to enlighten you. After probably close to 100 train rides during my 1 year in China I want to share with you some differences to see how behind, or in some ways just different, the trains are in the US compared with China. I was initially only going to state the negatives in America’s train system, but after looking around I realized there were some things to be proud of as well.

It can’t compete with China because it…
• Putters along on the rickety train, not possibly going more than 25 maybe 30 mph. Doesn’t have much on the 260 km/h train in a few place in China!
• One train the whole day with a total of 4 cars, compared with many cities in China that have dozens going to the same destination each train holding approximately 1500 passengers

• Not able to buy tickets in the station and have to reserve them by calling ahead or going online

• Doesn’t have to slow down in towns and stop for 45 on end when there is “congested on the tracks” (build some more track for crying out loud!)

• No postings as to when the train leaves/arrives (although the old man on the cell phone with the conductor of the coming train was pretty cool)

• There’s no ultra-convenient “Air Sickness bags” (No joke) with the seat in front of you, fully to the task as trash bin, notepaper, or oh yeah, if you can get yourself “air sick” on a train it catches those blowing cookies like no other

But it does have…
• Conductors that see me as a person, not just another number, or job to be completed who won’t even look at you (like it is in China). On my trip to Chicago the conductor actually told me I had to have a reservation or I’d have to pay more money. To which he responded, not getting mad or asking me for the full price, but rather initially telling me a number to call and then just calling it himself, making a reservation, and charging the reservation price that is $13. Now that’s American customer service!

• Pillow for each and every seat

• Emergency and Handicap accessibility, something unheard of in China

• Luggage racks above the seats that were easily twice as tall as those in China

• More space than I knew what to do with! One guy on the train layed across the two seats (see picture). Only half the car filled, if that (much different than my experiences in China during Chinese New Year: See picture!)

• Power outlets (120 V!) for my laptop so I can type this blog and still be charging my battery!

• More diversity of passengers than I’ve ever seen on any train in China (easy to notice since everyone wasn’t staring at me)

• Views of the forest and farmland of Indiana at a comfortable pace, the first time in my 24 years of life in the US - priceless!

So before you travel to a destination within a few hours, before mindlessly jumping in your gas-guzzling SUV where you’ll probably spend $100 at the pump this weekend, why not consider a ride with Amtrak! Cheaper than a ride in your car, reliability that even though its not flawless trumps Greyhound every day of the week, and I’ll guarantee right now, they will be plenty of space for you!

And the best part of all: Going through towns where you’re not the one stopping when the railroad gates go down over the road, but you’re the one stopping traffic!

Greyhound gets another strike

I rolled out of bed a few minutes before 5, groggy and not happy to be getting up so early when I didn’t really need to be Chicago so early in the morning. But I was flexible with my schedule in order to catch the 5:45 AM bus. I arrived a half hour early because I knew I had to buy a ticket and when I had been at a Chicago station the month before there was a line. As I walked up to the lobby of the station it didn’t look very promising, no cars in the parking light and absolute silence. I pulled on the handle, wet as it was damp from the morning dew. Nothing happened. I said goodbye to my friend and told him that I’d call if there were any problems. After 15 minutes of waiting, another guy pulled up in his car and waited along with me. It was 5:45, 5:55, 6:05. He went and checked another street where he found a city bus. He asked that driver about a Greyhound bus and he said “Oh yeah, that pulled out about 20 minutes ago up there on 3rd street!”

3rd street! For some reason due to the bus not being able to turn around very easily, the bus decided to stop a couple blocks totally out of view of the current station. There was no sign about lobby hours, change of location, even a number to call if there were any problems. I even tried calling the Greyhound station in Chicago and what was I told? Nothing because they never picked up the phone. Frustrated I told my friend to come back and pick me up because I had “missed” or rather, never seen, the bus. The only saving grace about that experience was that knowledgeable of Greyhound's less then stellar track record, I didn’t book the ticket online, so I wasn’t out any money, just a few hours of sleep and inconveniencing my friend.

It wasn’t until an hour later when I returned to the same station, (shared by Amtrak, there was a train up to Chicago) that I found out that day was the first day that Greyhound was stopping their lobby service in Lafayette. “Oh, why that’s convenient to know”, I thought. Sure enough as I entered the station I saw a sign inside the building about 4 x 6 inches saying “Greyhound buses are boarding on Third Street until further notice”. Next time. Well maybe there won’t be a next time. I’ve now lost all confidence in Greyhound to deliver service, punctuality or certainty of having a seat. If I do have to travel long distance and flying is too expensive in the future I’ll either go Amtrak or Megabus-a new express and cheap bus service that opened a few years back.

“If I was in China this NEVER would have happened! I’d be lining up, or mobbing, behind 500 people waiting to get my ticket punched, down the platform and onto the train. And if I ever miss it, in 30 minutes time there’s bound to be another train/bus going the same place.

Oh well, just over 3 weeks and I’ll be back in the land of bike armadas perusing the streets, cattle chute train station lines, early morning taiqi in the parks, and color-enhancing pollution-sure to take any uneventful journey on the road and turn it into a ride through exhaust pipe (the picture was taken after a 3-hour leg of a weekend bike tour in China). 中国加油!

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

a peek into the life of an International student…in America

Wo bu zhi dao, shi zai na li,” (in English meaning:”I don’t know where it is”) was the speech I heard from a tall, Chinese-looking student on the phone as he was walking down the sidewalk on Purdue’s campus. Somewhat taken aback because I felt as if I was back in China, I intentionally shortened my strides a bit. I gathered that he was on his way to the library but didn’t know where it was. After he got off the phone I asked him if I could help him and then, speaking Chinese asked where he was from. In hearing the Chinese he quickly taken aback and asked if I spoke Chinese (always a funny question given I just spoke a couple lines of Chinese to him). After helping direct him to the right place on campus, after talking to this guy for less than 5 minutes, I was asked for my phone number so we could hang out some time. Interested in finding opportunities to speak Chinese myself, I gladly gave it to him, but mentioned I was going to leave the area in just a few days.

Luckily the next day I wasn’t very busy, so we were able to connect with him in the afternoon. We talked for quite a while in his new apartment, absolutely bare except for his laptop (within his first 4 days in the US he had already bought a new one since the US is the cheapest place in the world to buy them, please friends, no complaining), a bag of Oreos, and an opened suitcase filled with clothes and food from his hometown, in Jilin province in Northeast China. It was an apartment for 3, but since classes didn’t start for a few more days, both of his roommates, whom he hadn’t the slightest notion who they would be, still had not arrived. As we began talking it wasn’t too long before he attempted to turn on the air conditioner, quickly asking me what a reasonable temperature was since he had never heard of Fahrenheit before. Also before we left his apartment he was sure to give me several plastic packages of dried squid (not fresh of course, but dried, salty and crunchy fishy-flavored goodness) and a few small Mooncakes. Both of these were special foods from his hometown in China that his mom, like any Chinese mom, or as I think about it any mom anywhere, would give his son before he takes off to the other side of the world.

Jack was only a sophomore college student abroad for just one semester. Studying architectural design, this opportunity he had to study in the US was possibly once in a lifetime. One that he said he would take advantage of by seeking to understand more of American’s open-mindedness and views about the world. One where he’d travel from East coast to West coast, visiting landmarks and buying what he deemed to be better quality technological and acoustic equipment for his band. Ultimately though I was seeing by all the uncertainties and questions on his mind, a step into the unknown.

I glanced at his class schedule filled with abbreviations which was all Greek to him. So, I offered a few words of wisdom on the classes that might be more difficult or rather simple. Then he asked about the computer he bought online and whether or not he had to call the company after it was delivered to him. That’s what you do in China, he had no idea if you did the same here. I listened to him and a group of other Chinese students that evening share their fears about how they talk to Westerners. What if they don’t understand what I’m trying to say? What if I totally miss the meaning of their answer? What about all that slang they use? Do they really laugh after everything they say and is it really that funny? Language especially is a very difficult thing that I didn’t personally realize how fast, culturally-specific, and idiom-filled it was until I was in China and began speaking to my American friends while my Chinese friends were present. Even someone who speaks fluent English but hasn’t been in an atmosphere of those who speak like college students do, might not have a clue what the meaning is. And when they don’t how encouraging are we as Americans to move to that person’s level and explain it in words that person will understand?

We talked for a couple hours, first in Chinese and then both realizing his English was better than my Chinese, in English. We talked about life, sports, food, technology, and faith. Honestly, not too much unlike my time in China except with the roles reversed. Instead of my Chinese friends wanting to look after me to make sure I knew where things were and that I was safe, I felt the same kind of responsibility for him. It was amazing to me as I pondered, “This guy is coming over here taking classes just like any other freshman here at Purdue. He’s got a class schedule, orientation, apartment, and buying books and gadgets just like I was my first year at college. He isn’t really that unique anymore. That’s just part of what society looks like today. And yeah, why not go travel and see different sights of interest in the US, maybe it’ll be his only chance.”

He is one of 800 Chinese students at Purdue and one of tens of thousands that comes over every year, or every 4 years since many attend all 4 years in the US. And though China is the largest country with possibly the most students, there are dozens of other countries with similar motivations and programs.

We also went back to my friend’s house to hang out for a while and Jack’s curiosity in the house included anything and everything. All the pictures and awards on the wall, couches on which we sat, and size of…well, everything. Jack was lucky, in the fact that he had been in the US for less than a week and had already been in an American home. Something the majority of students never get to see in the 4 or more years in which they study in America.

I couldn’t help but think how many more “Jack”’s there were around the world. Students who were leaving their home countries and cultures in search of a better education and way of life in the West. You here how common it is today and that over 80% of Chinese students who come over to work/study never return. But what effect does that have on the economy? I’m sure it pushes, or should push, the average American to be more dedicated in their studies since the competition gets stiffer, especially in disciplines of hard sciences and technology. Its great that students from abroad are coming here, working in Western companies, and primarily benefiting our economy. But it almost doesn’t seem fair to their home countries. Isn’t it great that many people desire to come to my home country of the US for under- and post-graduate studies. When might come a time when there will actually be better opportunities educationally and vocationally in one’s home country?

And what should our response be as Americans to this? And as a child of the King? Will we welcome them with open arms and share our culture and lives with them or will we have feelings of competition or anger for the jobs they might take or awards they will win. I’m not trying to open a huge can of worms or suggest any real changes that should be made. I am hinting that the America of the 21st century will truly become a continually larger global society. I’m also pointing out the realities of what life is like for one, “Jack”, and many others who leave their home countries in search of a brighter future elsewhere. Will they find that future that gives them that much sought after joy and satisfaction? Or only be in a neverending competitive fight with the next one who’s smarter and richer. In so doing sacrifice much in familial, relational, and social aspects of life that they will look back and say 50 years from now, despite the increased material rewards, and say that it actually wasn’t really worth it? And what impact will you have in them going through that process?